The City of Death and Liberation.

No other city on earth is as famous for death as is Varanasi. More than for her temples and magnificent Ghats, more than for her silks and brocades, Banaras, The Great Cremation Ground, is known for death. At the center of the city along the riverfront is Manikarnika, the sanctuary of death, with its ceaselessly smoking cremation pyres.

The cremation grounds of prominence in the city today are at Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat. The burning ghat extends its influence and the sense of its presence throughout the city.

For death in Kashi is death transformed. As the saying goes,"Kaashyaam maranam muktih "Death in Kashi is Liberation". It is dying that that unleashes the greatest holy power of Kashi, the power of bestowing the liberation, Moksha or Mukti. Death, which elsewhere is feared, here is a long expected guest. Death which elsewhere is under the terrifying jurisdiction of of Yama, is free from that terror here, for Yama is not allowed within the city limits of Kashi. Death, which elsewhere is polluting, is here holy and auspicious. Death the most natural, unavaidable and certain of human realities, is here the sure gate to Moksha, the rarest, most precious, most difficult to achieve of spiritual goals.

Shiva, the Teacher at Death's Door

Kashi is the place where Shiva himself, the Great Lord, teaches the Taraka Mantra.

When one dies in Kashi, they say, it is Shiva himself who whispers in one's ear the Taraka Mantra, or "Ferryboat Mantra" or the "Mantra of the Crossing".

Tarak Mantra

Tarak Mantra or "ferryboat mantra" is whispered by Shiva in the ear of dying. The word tarak comes from the Sanskrit root meaning "to cross over." Tarak, however, is from the causative form of this root, meaning "to carry over" or "to rescue, save." Since a boat carries one across the flood, it is also called a tarak. Like a boat, mantra saves one from the waters of samsara.

according to some, Om is the mantra Shiva utters at the time of death. Others claim it is the mantra "Rama, Rama" that is spoken.

Whatever the uttered word of mantra is, however, is quite beside the point. When Shiva speaks in person, it is a revealation of God, from God.

Manikarnika

At Manikarnika cremation ground, there is a sacred fire which is said to have burned for as long as anyone can remember. It is kept by the Domes, the untouchable caste that cares for the cremation ground and tends the pyres. With the flames of this sacred fire the cremation pyres are lighted.

Promise

Kashi promises much more tham a good life. This city promises a good death. Here death comes as no surprise. Everyday the processions pass, bearing a corpse toward Manikarnika. Every night the fire burns on the riverbank. The procession of life includes the procession of death. Here death is not denied. Perhaps that is why they can say that death is not feared, but welcomed as a long-awaited guest.

The promise of good death takes the danger out of death occasions. The very sick or the distressed may lose consciousness as death approaches and be unable to place their thoughts upon the name of God, but Shiva himself will be there, they say, to whisper wisdom into the ear of the dying. Yama the God of Death, may not approach the dead here, noose in hand. Kala Bhairav takes charge of dead, and he is Shiva's own servant, indeed, Shiva's own self. Even if there is some terrible punishment to be meted out, it is gauranteed to be short-lived and to be followed by the bliss of liberation.

  to Varanasi page.